Chef Valerie Chang on Serving Her Own Stories Through Peruvian Cuisine
We sat down with the award-winning chef ahead of Delta SkyMiles and American Express’ “World to Table” dinner to discuss her recipes for success and advocacy for social change.
Chef Valerie Chang believes that identifying your story is the most important thing to do before opening the doors of your restaurant – and she certainly has a story to tell. The owner of Miami-based restaurant Maty’s grew up in Chiclayo, Peru before moving to the United States. Her earliest memories of the kitchen are ones of watching her father cook at restaurants – eventually inspiring her to join the industry through opening a family restaurant, Itamae, in 2018.
Chang swiftly garnered the attention of Miami locals and global culinary experts alike, securing two James Beard semifinalist nominations for Rising Star Chef and a Michelin Bib Gourmand on the guide’s Miami list, to name a few. In March 2023, Chang opened the doors to her restaurant Maty’s, with a menu that beautifully modernizes comida criolla. After recently winning the 2024 James Beard Award for “Best Chef: South,” she’s also began exploring her passion for social change as a member of The James Beard Foundation’s Policy Advocacy Program.
Dedicated to the mission that “food can transport us all around the world,” American Express and Delta SkyMiles tapped Chef Valerie Chang for their immersive culinary experience, called “World to Table.” Held at the Lone Star Ranch in Austin, Texas, the event celebrated Delta SkyMiles® American Express Cards members alongside special guests. The night was packed with a salsa tasting, live performance and, of course, the culinary artistry of Chang herself. Blending nostalgia and cultural identity, the showcase underscored the power of community, authenticity and food’s ability to unite us all. In the words of Chang, “Every time you taste one of my sauces, it will create a memory for you that you’ll never forget.”
Continue reading for our full conversation with the award-winning chef as we discuss her recipes for success, biggest inspirations and advocacy for social change.
Your culinary journey began at a young age, watching your father in the kitchen. How did those early experiences shape your approach to cooking?
In Peru, I was inspired by grandmothers who are really great cooks but, my love for cooking became real when I moved to the United States. My dad wasn’t a chef in Peru. He became a cook in the U.S. because kitchens were and still are one of the only places that will hire immigrants while they’re sorting out their paperwork. He couldn’t afford a babysitter, so we would always go and I would be like “let me garnish some rolls or fry a mozzarella stick.” Then, I started working with him in the kitchen. If my dad hadn’t moved to the U.S. and became a chef himself, I would have never known being a chef was an option for me.
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Do you remember the moment that you started calling yourself a chef?
When I turned 23 or so — I had gone between front of house and back of house and it was then that I decided I was just going to stay back of house for a while. I had food that I needed the world to taste and see. I still very much enjoy front of house and I’m still trying to figure out how to have a service where everybody does everything. Its something very real to me and something I hope to figure out as I get more established in my career.
What inspires you most when creating new dishes?
My friends. I have a good group of girl friends who are also chefs and we talk about food and send each other pictures. The people I’ve met have been the most beautiful thing that I’ve received out of all of my allocates. Their work constantly inspires me to be better, be more curious and to open myself to think bigger.
Being on The James Beard Foundation’s Policy Advocacy Program, how do you see your role as a chef expanding into areas of social change?
I have a good relationship with the James Beard Foundation but I ended up going to that program because I was having a quick life crisis. I was like “What am going to do? What’s the point of having all of these accolades if I’m not going to do something with them or make a difference?” That’s a big thing for chefs, outside of your kitchen who are you and what’s your legacy? So, I went to the program and I met incredible humans who are doing incredible things in their space.
I’m just starting to open the door to what I’m going to feel passionate about. I began learning about present issues like Florida passing a “No Shade Law” that basically says it doesn’t matter that farmers don’t need to be in shaded areas. I was a child who couldn’t get free lunch. My parents didn’t send me with lunch so, I would just sit there for eight hours and not know what I supposed to eat all day. I’m aware of that and it’s something I want to advocate for, having accessible food for everyone, especially while in school.
How do you feel the food scene in Miami is changing and what trends are you seeing?
You’re going to see a lot more authenticity in Miami. The Miami food scene used to be about steak houses and tiny mom and pops. Now, Miami is really making a name of itself on the scene because a lot of people are more authentic with themselves. You’re going to see a lot of interesting cuisine come up that represents the people who make up Miami.
What were you most excited to make for your “World to Table” menu?
I was super excited to make the appetizers. They were things that I’ve made throughout my career but hadn’t made for a while. I was honestly excited for the whole dinner — it was a big production, the largest I’ve done outside of my own kitchen.
What do you think is the secret recipe for success in the restaurant industry?
The most important thing is to identify your story and really think about the story that you want the world to know. There’s so many ways to learn how to cook. There’s kitchens that will make you a really good chef, really quickly but it’s all about your story. Some chefs are really technical and they become masters of their craft — that is their gift to the world. For me, my story is about nostalgia. Every time you taste one of my sauces, it will take you back to a certain space and create a memory for you that you’ll never forget. Telling your story and finding your purpose is the most important thing to do before ever opening the doors of your restaurant.
