Under the Radar Brands You Might Have Missed at LFW SS25
Your cheat-sheet to get you ahead of the fashion curve.
It is all too easy to get lost in the hype of fashion week, and London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2025 has certainly not been any different. From Chopova Lowena‘s incredible Asics collab, to celebrity appearances like Harry Styles at S.S. Daley, Central Cee at Skepta‘s MAINS and Simone Ashley at Nensi Dojaka, it isn’t hard to get distracted and miss the wealth of talent that was also on display.
For example: Fashion East alumn Karoline Vitto made her debut standalone show this season. Undeniably one of the most inclusive shows on the schedule, Vitto served as a fresh reminder of what representation and body positivity should look like. Tolu Coker‘s show was also a knockout, closing out day three of LFW on an emotional high. Her collection was inspired by her mother, Olapeju, who she shared her final bow with. Her show was one of the few this season to receive a standing ovation, too. But there’s plenty more where that came from. Keep reading to see five more brands you need to be aware of. Mark our words: these are the designers of tomorrow.
Lueder
Our first thought watching this show was hoblin goblin core and, honestly, we weren’t far off. The mastermind behind the brand, Marie Lueder delved into the medieval era to gather her inspiration for the brand’s SS25 collection. Alchemy, an ancient practice that aims to transform ordinary substances into something pure or valuable, was a key concept of hers. In the context of the “Albedo” collection, alchemy referred to a spiritual transformation, as well as unique prints and patterns created in partnership with artist Thomas P. Grogan.
Some of our favorite pieces from the collection included an all black, distressed and washed leather look. With a buttoned closure and a long asymmetrical leather skirt-like garment, the model wore a metallic, iridescent masquerade face mask. A cwonky walk further expressed a sense of unity and transformation, too.
Lueder also showcased a PUMA collab on the runway, with all models donning PUMA x Lueder socks and “Speedboat” sneakers, previously spotted at Berlin Fashion Week.
Completedworks
First of all, the set design was impeccable. Set in a Bloomsbury’s Gordon Square in London, mirrored surfaces served as the centrepiece, creating a dreamlike blur under the blazing September sun.
The brand’s SS25 collection, titled “A Stone Is A Small Mountain,” was showcased as a micro play in three parts, featuring Glee star Diana Agron and model-turned-actor Lily Cole. The pair were glammed out in CompletedWorks jewellery and accessories, in addition to the brand’s new bucket bag. The bag itself was a reimagining of the classic silhouette, anchored by bow motifs which proved both elegant and feminine. We absolutely loved Lily Cole’s look, a black silk dress with a delicate tulle overlay which put the focus firmly on her hair, which was heavily adorned with CompletedWorks’ mini pearl earrings. She also wore a pearl necklace and embezzled pearl earrings to match.
The three-act play was inspired by French sculptor Camille Claude and explored the challenges women, and particularly female artists, face. It was written by Fatima Farheen Mirza, who also penned the monologue performed by Joanna Lumley at the brand’s Fall/Winter 2024 show.
YAKU
Graduate of Leeds Beckett University and Central Saint Martins, Yaku Stapleton was the standout designer from British Fashion Council‘s NEWGEN 2024 programme. For the SS25 season, he’s taken futurism to another level, naming the collection, “The ImPossible Family Reunion.” Coded in YAKU DNA, his collection explores Afrofuturism based on a fantasy version of his family members reimagined as video game characters.
This was the first season YAKU explored womenswear, which was showcased in an immersive exhibition layout. Models were dressed in YAKU felt-stitched pieces and were acting out mundane ‘family’ conversations one may have at home. Though seeming fun on the surface, “The ImPossible Family Reunion” addresses the dark past of Afro-heritage.
The set design was made with sustainability in mind. The floors, ceilings, walls and other props used to create the space were all crafted from textiles developed in-house, employing deadstock fabrics which go on to be repurposed.
Johanna Parv
Johanna Parv has seamlessly blended her background in running with her love for fashion, creating a chic and understated approach to athleisure. Her designs transform sportswear into a stylish, functional wardrobe for the woman on the move, who remains effortlessly composed, elegant and unbothered. The Johanna Parv woman is constantly on the go, but never chaotic — she’s sleek, polished and fresh-faced, thanks to the brand’s collaboration with FaceGym, offering gua sha and skincare treatments for a natural glow. Notably, Parv made history as the first LFW designer to go completely makeup-free.
For SS25, Parv expands her signature aesthetic, featuring asymmetric skirt-shorts, cycling-inspired zip-up tops and running neck bags. The introduction of silicone dots marks her “Grip” pieces as both functional and striking. New accessories — runner-style headbands, compression socks and unisex tote bags complement water-repellent linen and lightweight wool suiting, staying true to her ethos of fusing natural fabrics with technical precision. However, the standout piece we loved was the “Tech Vent Dress” seen in the photo above, showcases Parv’s masterful zippable and adjustable versatility.
Standing Ground
Michael Stewart, creative director and powerhouse behind Standing Ground is one to watch without a doubt. The designer not only won the inaugural Savoir-Faire Prize at the 2024 LVMH Prize just last week, but he also went on to show his first solo debut runway at London Fashion Week.
Standing Ground’s collection was equal parts alien and celestial, futuristic and ancient — in a Dune-like way. Statuesque models made their way slowly around his bright and sparse runway, donning draped jersey and leather-wrapped beads that were anything but light and fun. Instead, they created a textural tension that at times resembled an extraterrestrial exoskeleton. At other times they looked more like a modern gown that could only be worn by a mythical being, or vampire for that matter. Given the quality of the materials and the intricate structures they were ruched and padded into, it makes perfect sense that Stewart continues to exclusively make pieces to order.
